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Champagne · Alsace

Itinerary

Champagne · Wed 16 – Thu 17 Dec

Wed 16 · Reims, the cathedral and the crayères

Gothic west front of Reims Cathedral with its rose window
Reims CathedralWhere the kings of France were crowned; the west front and its rose window. Christmas market on the square below.Photo Ludovic Péron, CC BY-SA 3.0
Chalk walls of the Ruinart cellars
RuinartThe oldest Champagne house (1729), chalk cellars (crayères) listed by UNESCO. Book ahead.Photo G.Garitan, CC BY-SA 4.0
Champagne bottles of every size on a shelf at Taittinger
TaittingerCellars in the crayères under the old Saint-Nicaise abbey; the alternative to Ruinart.Photo UNTERMVIERENBERGE-2, CC0

Thu 17 · Hautvillers, Épernay, the Côte des Blancs

Hautvillers on its hillside above the vineyards
HautvillersThe abbey village of Dom Pérignon, on the slope of the Montagne de Reims above the Marne.Photo October Ends, CC BY-SA 3.0
Mansions and gates along the Avenue de Champagne
Avenue de Champagne, ÉpernayThe big houses side by side, UNESCO-listed; Moët & Chandon on Thu (closed Tue, Wed).Photo Michal Osmenda, CC BY 2.0
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger among chardonnay vineyards
Côte des BlancsChardonnay villages: Cramant, Avize, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. Family growers, by appointment, ~10 min from Épernay; another on Fri morning before the drive.Photo Diliff, CC BY-SA 3.0

Alsace wine route · Fri 18 – Sat 19 Dec

Fri 18 · → Alsace, lunch in Nancy

Gilded gates and fountain at a corner of Place Stanislas
Place Stanislas, NancyThe 18th-century square and its gilded gates, halfway to Alsace; lunch here.Photo Berthold Werner, CC BY-SA 3.0
Half-timbered house below the castle tower of Kaysersberg
KaysersbergHalf-timbered houses under the castle ruin; the Christmas market in the evening (Fri–Sun, 10:00–20:00). Dinner at Le Chambard.Photo Gzen92, CC BY-SA 4.0

Sat 19 · Tastings on the wine route, then Strasbourg

Town hall of Riquewihr with flower boxes
RiquewihrWalled village among the vines; Hugel is here. Ribeauvillé, home of Trimbach, is ~10 min north, on the way to Strasbourg (~1h).Photo Krzysztof Golik, CC BY-SA 4.0

Tastings

Weinbach
Kaysersberg · family estate, by appointment
Trimbach
Ribeauvillé · family house since 1626
Hugel
Riquewihr · family house since 1639, in the village
Zind-Humbrecht
Turckheim · biodynamic, by appointment; south of Kaysersberg, off the way north

Strasbourg · Sat 19 – Mon 21 Dec

Sun 20 · The cathedral, Petite France, the markets at night

West front and spire of Strasbourg Cathedral in pink sandstone
Strasbourg CathedralPink sandstone, one spire; the astronomical clock inside. Sunday services limit visits in the morning.Photo Diliff, CC BY-SA 3.0
Half-timbered houses along the Ill in Petite France
Petite FranceTanners' houses and canals of the Ill, on the UNESCO-listed Grande Île. Dinner in a winstub.Photo Dietmar Rabich, CC BY-SA 4.0
Lit entrance arch of the Christkindelsmärik at night
ChristkindelsmärikFrance's oldest Christmas market (1570), on Place Broglie and around the cathedral; ~27 Nov – 24 Dec (2026 dates not official yet). Lit from ~16:30.Photo Claude Truong-Ngoc, CC BY-SA 3.0

Mon 21 · Wine cellar, Palais Rohan, evening TGV

Cave Historique des Hospices
Wine cellar under the city hospital since 1395, casks and a shop; weekdays ~8:30–12:00, 13:30–17:30, hours to confirm
Palais Rohan
Fine arts, decorative arts, archaeology; open Mon, closed Tue
Christkindelsmärik
Weekday morning, the calmest time
TGV → Paris-Est
Evening, ~1h50; a ~20:00 train leaves time for the lights

Good to know

One-way hirePick up in Paris Wed 16, return in Strasbourg Sat 19; check the one-way fee and Saturday hours.
Winter tyresVosges, 1 Nov – 31 Mar: winter tyres (M+S, 3PMSF) or chains/snow socks on board. Ask at pick-up.
Over the VosgesNancy → Kaysersberg crosses a pass; if snow is forecast, take the motorway via Strasbourg.
Crit'Air stickerStrasbourg is a low-emission zone; you won't need the car in the city.
Christmas marketsKaysersberg Fri evening; Strasbourg crowded on Saturday, calmer late Sunday and Monday morning.
Book cellars earlyThe famous houses sell out weeks ahead; growers need an appointment.

Decisions still open

  • Champagne baseReims (walk to the houses) or the vineyards above Épernay (quiet)Champagne →
  • HotelsLes Crayères (a château) or Royal Champagne; Le Chambard in Kaysersberg; StrasbourgHotels →
  • CarOne-way hire Paris → Strasbourg, Wed 16 – Sat 19, with winter tyres; where to pick it upTips →
  • Cellar visitsRuinart or Taittinger Wed 16; Épernay and a grower Thu 17; a grower Fri 18 morning; Alsace domaines Sat 19Champagne →
  • TGV Strasbourg → ParisMon 21, eveningTransport →
  • Paris, Tue 15 DecStill tentativeTransport →