Japan

24nights in JapanFri 25 Dec – Sun 17 Jan · fly in Thu 24, out Mon 18

1Tokyo東京Fri 25 · 1 night
2Hakone箱根Sat 26 · 4 nights
3Tokyo東京Wed 30 · 4 nights
4Kyoto京都Sun 3 · 5 nights
5Sapporo札幌Fri 8 · 3 nights
6NisekoニセコMon 11 · 6 nights
7Tokyo東京Sun 17 · 1 night

hotel booked · click a day or a pin to open it 4 open decisions

Itinerary

Thu 24 – Fri 25 · JL 46Paris CDG 17:20 → Haneda 羽田 14:50 next day · ~30 min by taxi to EbisuBooked

Tokyo 東京 · Fri 25 Dec

1Tokyo 東京Fri 25 Dec1 nightRest after the flight; Christmas lightsThe Westin Tokyo

Fri 25 · Land, Christmas in Ebisu 恵比寿

JL 46 lands at Haneda 羽田 14:50; ~30 min by taxi to the hotel. Christmas Eve/Day is a couples’ night out: book dinner.

The square of Yebisu Garden Place — **Baccarat Eternal Lights, Yebisu Garden Place 恵比寿ガーデンプレイス**A giant Baccarat chandelier in the square, steps from the Westin; lit 11:00–23:00 until 11 Jan. Château Restaurant Joël Robuchon is on the same square.Photo Syced, CC0

Sat 26 · Tōkaidō Shinkansen 東海道新幹線Tokyo → Odawara 小田原 · ~35 min · then ~30 min by taxiTo book

Hakone 箱根 · Sat 26 – Tue 29 Dec

2Hakone 箱根Sat 26 – Tue 29 Dec4 nightsFour slow days at one hotel: the hot spring in the room, the loop, the old Tōkaidō road, art, and a day trip to FujiHotel The Mitsui HakoneDriver for the Fuji day

Onsen 温泉 villages in the mountains ~1h15 from Tokyo 東京; the hotel is in the forest at Kowakidani 小涌谷, on the mountain railway. Fuji 富士山 is clearest on winter mornings. From ~29 Dec Tokyo’s year-end holidays fill the loop and the lake, not the hotel: sightseeing 26–28, the 29th slow.

Sat 26 · Arrive, the hotel’s hot spring

Shinkansen to Odawara 小田原, ~30 min by taxi up to the hotel. An afternoon in the room’s onsen, dinner at the hotel. If there’s time: the Hakone Open-Air Museum 彫刻の森美術館, one stop away on the Hakone Tozan Railway 箱根登山鉄道 (hours to check).

Coloured stone seats on a terrace among red maples at the Hakone Open-Air Museum — **Hakone Open-Air Museum 彫刻の森美術館**Sculpture on open lawns over the valley, a Picasso pavilion and a foot bath; one stop from Kowakidani.Photo Suicasmo, CC BY-SA 4.0

Sun 27 · The loop, Lake Ashi, the old road

The Hakone Round Course, done backwards to stay ahead of the crowds. ~8:00 taxi to Moto-Hakone 元箱根: the torii of Hakone Shrine 箱根神社 in the water, Fuji behind Lake Ashi 芦ノ湖 on a clear morning. Then the sightseeing boat 箱根海賊船 to Tōgendai 桃源台 (~$11 (¥1,700); winter timetable to check), the Hakone Ropeway 箱根ロープウェイ over the steaming Ōwakudani 大涌谷 to Sōunzan 早雲山 (~$13 (¥2,000); 9:00–16:15 in December, back from maintenance after 24 Dec), the cable car to Gora 強羅 and the mountain train to Kowakidani, by the hotel. The ropeway stops in strong wind or volcanic gas: a taxi covers the gap. The Hakone Freepass 箱根フリーパス covers all four (~$38 (¥6,000) for 2 days from Odawara; to confirm).

Or start with the old Tōkaidō road 旧東海道 at Moto-Hakone, before the boat: the Edo 江戸 highway’s stone paving and the cedar avenue 杉並木 along the lake, the rebuilt Hakone Checkpoint 箱根関所, and further up the old road the thatched Amazake-chaya 甘酒茶屋 teahouse (sweet rice drink, mochi; a taxi back down). The stones can be icy: good shoes.

Lake Ashi with Mount Fuji behind and the red torii of Hakone Shrine on the shore — **Hakone Shrine and Lake Ashi 箱根神社**The red torii in the water, Fuji over the lake on a clear morning. First stop, before the crowds.Photo Charlie fong, CC BY-SA 4.0

Two pirate-ship cruise boats moored at a pier on Lake Ashi — **Lake Ashi cruise 箱根海賊船**Moto-Hakone to Tōgendai on the "pirate ships", ~$11 (¥1,700).Photo Joli Rumi, CC BY-SA 4.0

A ropeway gondola above the steaming volcanic slopes of Ōwakudani — **Hakone Ropeway over Ōwakudani 大涌谷**Over the sulphur vents to Sōunzan, ~$13 (¥2,000); stops in strong wind or gas.Photo Joli Rumi, CC BY-SA 4.0

Mon 28 · Day trip to Fuji

With a driver for the day (the hotel can arrange one; price not checked), ~1h–1h15 each way; or swap with Tue 29 for the clearer forecast. Out at ~7:00: the Chūreitō Pagoda 忠霊塔 above Fujiyoshida 富士吉田 first, ~400 steps to the classic view, before the crowds; the north shore of Lake Kawaguchi 河口湖 and Ōishi Park 大石公園; the Itchiku Kubota Art Museum 久保田一竹美術館 (hours to check); Oshino Hakkai 忍野八海, the spring ponds, on the way back. Lunch: hōtō ほうとう, the local noodle stew. Back for the bath by mid-afternoon.

The red five-storey Chūreitō Pagoda with snowy Mount Fuji behind — **Chūreitō Pagoda 忠霊塔**~400 steps up to the classic view; before 9:00.Photo Stjepko Krehula, CC BY 4.0

Snow-capped Mount Fuji across Lake Kawaguchi — **Fuji over Lake Kawaguchi**From the north shore at dawn, before the clouds build.Photo Subramaniam K V, CC BY 3.0

Stone-arched entrance of the Itchiku Kubota Art Museum — **Itchiku Kubota Art Museum 久保田一竹美術館**Kimono dyed as landscapes, in a Gaudí-like building with a garden (hours to check).Photo 江戸村のとくぞう, CC BY-SA 4.0

A deep blue spring pool edged with yellow leaves at Oshino Hakkai — **Oshino Hakkai 忍野八海**Eight spring-fed ponds of Fuji snowmelt, clear to the bottom; on the way from Hakone. Busy by late morning.Photo lumoplank, CC0

Tue 29 · A slow day, art

The Okada Museum 岡田美術館 next to the hotel (closed only 31 Dec – 1 Jan), or the Pola Museum of Art ポーラ美術館 in Sengokuhara 仙石原 (~9:00–17:00). Lunch or tea at the Fujiya Hotel 富士屋ホテル (1878) in Miyanoshita 宮ノ下, one stop down the railway. The rest of the day in the spa and the room’s bath; Hakone’s sights are busy from today.

Glass entrance bridge of the Pola Museum of Art among trees — **Pola Museum of Art ポーラ美術館**Impressionists and Japanese painting in a glass building in the forest; ~9:00–17:00.Photo 663highland, CC BY 2.5

Alternative · Original plan, Karuizawa 軽井沢 4 nights

Kept for reference; replaced by 4 nights in Hakone on 5 Nov (Karuizawa’s springs are mild, its ski hill small, with 6 ski days in Niseko ニセコ later).

	Original plan
Nights	Karuizawa Sat 26 – Tue 29 Dec, 4
Getting there	Hokuriku Shinkansen 北陸新幹線 from Tokyo, ~1h10 each way
Days	Hoshino area 星野エリア (Harunire Terrace, Stone Church) · Old Karuizawa Ginza, Shiraito Falls 白糸の滝 lit up · ski Karuizawa Prince Mon 28 · slow day, Kera-ike ケラ池 rink
Hotels (1 Nov)	Hoshinoya 星のや ~$770 a night, Karuizawa Marriott ~$715, Hotel Indigo ~$607
Side options	Kusatsu Onsen 草津温泉, ~1h by taxi: a day trip or 2 of the 4 nights · Nozawa Onsen 野沢温泉 ski day, ~98% full 28–30 Dec

Wed 30 · Tōkaidō Shinkansen 東海道新幹線~30 min by taxi to Odawara 小田原 · Odawara → Tokyo ~35 minTo book

Tokyo 東京 · Wed 30 Dec – Sat 2 Jan

3Tokyo 東京Wed 30 Dec – Sat 2 Jan4 nightsThe city empties; New Year at the hotel, shrines, the 2 Jan salesThe Westin TokyoBook New Year meals

Quiet streets, packed shrines. Most restaurants shut 31 Dec – 3 Jan: book New Year meals at the hotel.

Wed 30 · Markets, the last shopping day

Rows of tuna on the floor of Toyosu fish market — **Toyosu Market 豊洲市場**The tuna auction from the viewing deck from ~5:30, sushi breakfast inside. Open Wed 30; closed 31 Dec and Sundays.Photo 江戸村のとくぞう, CC BY-SA 4.0

Crowded lane of food stalls at Tsukiji outer market — **Tsukiji Outer Market 築地場外市場**New Year food shopping at its busiest: street food, knives, tamagoyaki 玉子焼き. Mornings.Photo Aw1805, CC BY-SA 3.0

Thu 31 · New Year’s Eve

Tokyo Tower above Zōjō-ji — **Zōjō-ji 増上寺 and Tokyo Tower 東京タワー**Joya no kane 除夜の鐘: the temple bell rung 108 times at midnight, Tokyo Tower lit behind. Dinner at the hotel first.Photo KimonBerlin, CC BY-SA 2.0

Fri 1 · Hatsumōde 初詣, the first shrine visit

Crowds at Meiji Jingū on New Year’s Day — **Meiji Jingū 明治神宮**Japan’s busiest shrine over New Year, open through the night of the 31st. Go at dawn, or pick a small local shrine.Photo vitalsine, CC BY-SA 2.0

Sat 2 · The palace greeting, the sales

Stone bridge and palace walls of the Imperial Palace — **Imperial Palace 皇居, New Year greeting**The Emperor and family on the palace balcony, several times a day; entry 9:30–14:10 in 2026, the 2027 times come out in early December.Photo Chris 73, CC BY-SA 3.0

Chūō-dōri, the main street of Ginza — **Ginza 銀座 New Year sales**Department stores reopen on 2 Jan with fukubukuro 福袋, lucky bags; Chūō-dōri 中央通り is car-free on weekend afternoons.Photo Gary, CC BY-SA 2.0

Sun 3 · Tokaido Shinkansen 東海道新幹線Tokyo → Kyoto · ~2h15To book

Kyoto 京都 · Sun 3 – Thu 7 Jan

4Kyoto 京都Sun 3 – Thu 7 Jan5 nightsVery quiet 4–7 Jan; Nara 奈良, Uji 宇治, Osaka 大阪 as day tripsBanyan Tree Higashiyama

One hotel in Kyoto 京都, day trips out. Early January is quiet; before ~8:00 the famous places are nearly empty.

Nara 奈良 ~35 min Uji 宇治 ~25 min Osaka 大阪 ~30 min Out before 8:00

Sun 3 · Arrive, Gion 祇園 at dusk

Wooden houses along the Shirakawa canal in Gion — **Gion 祇園 at dusk**The Shirakawa 白川 canal, Hanamikōji 花見小路, then Pontochō 先斗町 by the river; a kaiseki 懐石 dinner.Photo MichaelMaggs, CC BY-SA 2.5

Mon 4 · Fushimi Inari 伏見稲荷大社 and Uji 宇治

Both on the JR Nara line JR奈良線, south of Kyoto 京都 Station.

Tunnel of orange torii gates with a lantern at Fushimi Inari — **Fushimi Inari 伏見稲荷大社**Thousands of torii up the hill; open all night. Go at dawn, before ~8:00.Photo Basile Morin, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Phoenix Hall of Byōdō-in reflected in its pond — **Byōdō-in 平等院, Uji 宇治**The Phoenix Hall 鳳凰堂 (on the 10-yen coin); then matcha 抹茶 in Uji, Japan's tea town. ~20 min on from Inari.Photo Marco Almbauer, CC0

Tue 5 · Nara 奈良, then Osaka 大阪 for dinner

The great wooden hall of Tōdai-ji — **Tōdai-ji 東大寺**The giant bronze Buddha in one of the largest wooden buildings in the world. Before the tour buses, ~9:00.Photo Cun Cun, CC BY-SA 4.0

Stone lanterns and a deer at Kasuga Taisha — **Kasuga Taisha 春日大社 and the deer park**Forest paths lined with stone lanterns; the tame deer roam the park between the two.Photo Zairon, CC BY 4.0

Neon signs over the canal in Dōtonbori at night — **Osaka 大阪, Dōtonbori 道頓堀**Nara 奈良 → Osaka-Namba 大阪難波 ~40 min (Kintetsu 近鉄). Neon and street food, or a dinner in Kitashinchi 北新地; ~30 min back to Kyoto 京都.Photo Sakai Yayoi, CC0

Wed 6 · Arashiyama 嵐山 and the northwest, then Nishiki 錦市場

Tall bamboo stems in the Arashiyama grove — **Arashiyama 嵐山 bamboo grove**Before ~8:00, or it is shoulder to shoulder. Tenryū-ji's 天龍寺 garden next door.Photo Basile Morin, CC BY-SA 4.0

Wooden gate opening onto a moss garden at Ōkōchi Sansō — **Ōkōchi Sansō 大河内山荘**A film star's hillside villa and garden at the top of the grove, usually quiet; matcha 抹茶 included (~$6 (¥1,000)).Photo Basile Morin, CC BY-SA 4.0

The golden pavilion of Kinkaku-ji over a frozen pond with snow — **Kinkaku-ji 金閣寺**The Golden Pavilion 金閣; at its best after snow, likelier in January than December.Photo Manish Prabhune, CC BY 4.0

Raked gravel and rocks of the Ryōan-ji garden — **Ryōan-ji 龍安寺**The 15-stone dry garden, ~20 min walk from Kinkaku-ji 金閣寺.Photo lumoplank, CC0

Barrels of pickles at a shop in Nishiki Market — **Nishiki Market 錦市場**Kyoto's 京都 food street; shops back after New Year by ~5 Jan.Photo collinox, CC BY 2.0

Red-lit aisle of the Nintendo KYOTO store — **Nintendo KYOTO**Nintendo's 任天堂 store on the 7th floor of Takashimaya 髙島屋, a few minutes from Nishiki 錦市場; Kyoto-only and Zelda goods.Photo Sergiy Galyonkin, CC BY-SA 2.0

Thu 7 · The eastern hills

Or Ōhara 大原 and Sanzen-in 三千院, ~40 min north by taxi.

Stone path beside a canal under trees, the Philosopher's Path — **Philosopher's Path 哲学の道**~2 km canal walk from Ginkaku-ji 銀閣寺 past Hōnen-in 法然院 to Nanzen-ji 南禅寺; quiet in winter.Photo Gzzz, CC BY 4.0

Zelda goods at Nintendo KYOTO 任天堂, Wed 6.

Kyoto 京都 after New Year

Temples quiet from 4 Jan Restaurants back ~4–5 Jan Nishiki 錦市場 shops back ~5 Jan Imperial Palace 京都御所, Sentō 仙洞御所, Shugaku-in 修学院離宮 to ~4 Jan

Sun 3 is still New Year: dinner at the hotel is the safe bet. Book Mon 4 – Thu 7 dinners ahead.

Fri 8 · NH 983~50 min to Itami 伊丹 · 14:00 → New Chitose 新千歳 15:50 · ~40 min by train to SapporoBooked

Sapporo 札幌 · Fri 8 – Sun 10 Jan

5Sapporo 札幌Fri 8 – Sun 10 Jan3 nightsFood over the long weekend, when the slopes are busy; ski gear waitingInterContinental SapporoHotel to hold the ski bag

A food city: lamb, seafood, miso ramen 味噌ラーメン, beer. Long weekend 9–11 Jan: book dinners.

Fri 8 · Land, jingisukan in Susukino すすきの

Lamb and vegetables on a domed grill — **Jingisukan ジンギスカン**Lamb grilled on a domed iron pan, Sapporo’s dish; Daruma だるま in Susukino has queues, go early. Then miso ramen.Photo Raita Futo, CC BY 2.0

Sat 9 · Market, beer, the night view

Nijō Market from the street — **Nijō Market 二条市場**Breakfast: kaisendon 海鮮丼, crab, uni 雲丹. Early, before the stalls fill.Photo Wing1990hk, CC BY 3.0

Red-brick Sapporo Beer Museum building — **Sapporo Beer Museum サッポロビール博物館**The red-brick 1890 building; tastings, and jingisukan at the beer garden next door. Closed Mondays.Photo MIKI Yoshihito, CC BY 2.0

Sapporo city lights at night from Mount Moiwa — **Mount Moiwa 藻岩山 night view**Ropeway and a small cable car to the top; the city lit in the snow. 11:00–22:00 in winter.Photo 掬茶, CC BY-SA 4.0

Sun 10 · Otaru 小樽 and Yoichi 余市

~35 min by train to Otaru, ~25 min more to Yoichi.

Otaru Canal and stone warehouses lit at night — **Otaru Canal 小樽運河**Stone warehouses along the canal; glass and music-box shops in Sakaimachi 堺町; sushi on Sushiya-dōri 寿司屋通り.Photo Haha169, CC BY-SA 4.0

Stone buildings with red roofs at the Nikka Yoichi distillery — **Nikka Yoichi Distillery 余市蒸溜所**Coal-fired stills; museum, shop and tasting bar without booking. Tours in Japanese only, book up to 4 weeks ahead; closed 23 Dec – 7 Jan.Photo 663highland, CC BY 2.5

Want a ski day? Your gear is already at the hotel. Sapporo Teine サッポロテイネ is ~40 min by taxi (Olympic slopes, sea views), Sapporo Kokusai 札幌国際スキー場 ~1h30 (more powder). Both are busy over the 9–11 Jan long weekend.

Mon 11 · By roadSapporo → Niseko · ~2h–2h30 · transferTo book

Niseko ニセコ · Mon 11 – Sat 16 Jan

6Niseko ニセコMon 11 – Sat 16 Jan6 nights6 ski days from Mon 11 as it empties; a day at Rusutsu ルスツPark Hyatt NisekoTransfers, lessons

One mountain, Niseko Annupuri ニセコアンヌプリ, four linked resorts: Hanazono, Grand Hirafu, Niseko Village, Annupuri; one All-Mountain pass. Night skiing from 12 Dec.

Mon 11 · Arrive, Hanazono 花園

The Hanazono base building on the snow — **Hanazono 花園**At the Park Hyatt’s door: tree runs and the quietest lifts. Ski the afternoon.Photo Excellent moniteur de ski, CC BY-SA 4.0

Tue 12 · Rusutsu ルスツ

Rusutsu gondola cabins over the road — **Rusutsu Resort ルスツリゾート**Three mountains linked by gondola, ~40 min by road; known for tree runs and short weekday queues.Photo BATACHAN, CC BY-SA 4.0

Wed 13 · Grand Hirafu 比羅夫, skiing under the lights

Snowy cone of Mount Yōtei — **Mount Yōtei 羊蹄山**The volcano across the valley, in view from every run. Grand Hirafu is the biggest area; night skiing after dark, then dinner in Hirafu village.Photo MIKI Yoshihito, CC BY 2.0

Thu 14 · Annupuri and Niseko Village

The Annupuri base under snow — **Annupuri アンヌプリ**The west side: long, wide runs and the fewest people. With a guide, the backcountry gates when they open.Photo Excellent moniteur de ski, CC BY-SA 4.0

Fri 15 – Sat 16 · Favourite runs, last day on skis

Back to the side you liked best; Sat 16 ski the morning, onsen and an early dinner after, pack the ski gear. Sun 17: Park Hyatt car to New Chitose (~2h) for an afternoon flight.

Skiing in Hokkaido 北海道, coming from the Alps

	The Alps	Hokkaido 北海道
Snow	Variable, often packed	Very dry powder, snows most January days
Vertical	1,500–2,000 m	Well under 1,000 m
Terrain	Open high-alpine slopes	Birch trees, smaller mountains
Weather	More blue-sky days	Flat light; often −10 °C or colder; dark ~16:30
Lunch	Mountain huts	Base lodges; onsen 温泉 after skiing

Powder and trees: the week goes fast. Mostly groomers: one resort can feel small after 4–5 days; Rusutsu ルスツ is ~40 min from Niseko ニセコ.

Flex: not enjoying the skiing? Swap Niseko ニセコ nights for Otaru 小樽 or another onsen 温泉 night.

Sun 17 · NH 66Park Hyatt car to New Chitose 新千歳, ~2h · 14:30 → Haneda 羽田 16:10Booked

Tokyo 東京 · Sun 17 Jan

7Tokyo 東京Sun 17 Jan1 nightAfternoon flight in from Niseko ニセコ; Mon 18 Haneda 羽田 08:20 → Paris → NiceThe Westin Tokyo

Sun 17 · The last evening

NH 66 lands at Haneda 16:10; Mon 18 the flight leaves at 08:20, so dinner near the hotel and an early night.

White pavilions of Daikanyama T-Site — **Daikanyama T-Site 代官山蔦屋書店**A bookshop in three linked pavilions, ~10 min on foot from Ebisu; coffee in the Anjin lounge.Photo Jonathan Lin, CC BY-SA 2.0

Mon 18 · JL 45 + AF 7314Haneda 羽田 08:20 → Paris CDG 14:55 · 18:10 → Nice 19:45Booked

Good to know

New Year closuresMost restaurants and shops shut 31 Dec – 3 Jan; hotels stay open. Big shrines packed 1–3 Jan.

Book trains a month aheadShinkansen 新幹線 for Sat 26 and Wed 30 Dec and Sun 3 Jan: seats open one month before, 10:00 Japan time.

Year-end holidays from ~29 DecCompanies close and Tokyo heads to the hot springs: Hakone's 箱根 loop and lake fill up: sightseeing 26–28, the 29th at the hotel.

Long weekend 9–11 JanComing of Age Day 成人の日: Sapporo's 札幌 slopes busy, so eat in Sapporo, ski Niseko ニセコ from Mon 11.

Getting aroundTrains, taxis and private transfers; no hire car. Book Hokkaido 北海道 transfers ahead.

Forward the luggageTakkyūbin 宅急便 between hotels; slow around New Year.

Book earlyHotels all booked; New Year meals and restaurants for 31 Dec – 3 Jan next: holiday dates fill first.

Ski gear · your suitcase from Chicago

Hotel says yesThe Sapporo 札幌 hotel agrees in writing to hold it
Chicago, ~mid–late DecPickup by Luggage Forward or Send My Bag, ~4–10 business days; couriers in Japan slow over New Year
Haneda 羽田, 25 DecDeclare it as unaccompanied baggage (別送品)
Sapporo 札幌, 8 JanWaiting at the hotel; label: booking name, dates, confirmation no.
OnwardYamato ヤマト運輸 to Niseko ニセコ

Decisions still open

Trains and the Fuji driverShinkansen Tokyo 東京 ⇄ Odawara 小田原 Sat 26 and Wed 30, Shinkansen to Kyoto 京都 Sun 3 Jan; a driver for the Fuji day Mon 28Transport →
New Year mealsBook at the Tokyo 東京 hotel for 31 Dec – 2 JanTokyo →
Ski gear suitcaseSapporo 札幌 hotel first, then the Chicago pickupSteps →
Hokkaido 北海道 transportPark Hyatt airport car Niseko → New Chitose Sun 17 (ask if it also collects in Sapporo Mon 11); transfer for the Rusutsu day; lessons or a guideNiseko →

Hotels for every stop, booked and shortlisted: Planning →